Wednesday, 25 March 2015

Hey Maharana!


Often called the The City of Lakes and Venice of the East, Udaipur is set on beautiful Lake Pichola, with buildings that date back over 500 years rising up from the waters.  It has a very 'south of France' feel to it, and what I imagine Monaco to be like. And like Monaco, Udaipur has it own royal family -- or technically, a former royal family.  But as Jim likes to say, anything with the word 'royal' in it is good enough for me! 


The city is known for its fabulous hotels and properties, many of which belong to the former Maharana of Udaipur (aka The Royals).  There is only one Maharana in India. The name means "Great Warrior" which apparently trumps a Maharaja or "Great Leader". Maharajas are also as common as daisies (or lotuses in India's case).  After India's Independence in the 1940s, Maharajas and the Maharana gave up their rights to rule, and in many cases, forfeited palaces and royal possessions. In replacement, they were given a privy purse (a pension of sorts) based on the size of their kingdom. This financial arrangement was, however, withdrawn by Indira Ghandi's government in the 1970s. Lesson learned. Never trust the government. But, before you start feeing too sorry for the former royals, keep in mind that some of them were outrageously wealthy before independence so now they are just extremely wealthy. 


In the new world, many royals have gone into business for themselves, partnering with hotel chains to convert their palaces. The one above is called the Lake Palace and it is owned by the Maharana in partnership with the Taj hotel group. It is the former summer palace of the Royal family and can only be reached by boat.  I tried to get onto the island but, without a reservation, it was a no-go. The closest I got was this shot from a window of the City Palace.









Beautiful courtyard views and interiors of the City Palace where they did let me in. The Palace was built over the course of 400 years by generations of Maharanas. Women in the Palace were hidden behind screens (left side of picture) as it was feared that their beauty could lead to feudal wars. Many lived their entire lives without ever leaving the Palace, or receiving any form of education. This system was called purdah and the practice was still in full swing all the way to India's Independence in the 1940s. 

  


Views from the water of Jagmandir Island, former day playground for the Royals built in the 17th century.  It is now the site of many a billionaire Indian wedding blowout. J.Lo performed at one such wedding here recently. 

10:00 am in Udaipur. 





Although they now have no real standing, Udairpur's Royal family is still held in very high regard and reside in a grand house within the City Palace walls.  Again, I attempted to gain an invitation inside for tea with no success.  However, as luck would have it, my brush with Royalty was just around the corner. 

As we were standing at the Palace gate with our guide ready to begin our tour, one of the princes (dressed in  pink pants!) sauntered by us on his way to his car in the garage.  Our Guide bowed so deeply I thought he was going to break in half. Later, as we were leaving the Palace, the Maharana himself drove by in a golf cart. Jim was going to ask the lady in the green sari (see below) to move along so he could get a better shot. Turns out that woman is the princess so perhaps it was a good idea that he didn't. The gentleman who looks like Jerry Garcia is the Maharana. 



Jim doing his best imitation of the current Maharana. 



Next stop. Bollywood's birthplace ... Mumbai. 


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